Diy background

I’ve posted on another forum but having a hard time figuring it out. I’m making a bioactive terrarium for a future crestie. I’m issuing expanding foam covered with silicone and eco earth. I had been using 100% silicone until I went to Home Depot last night to pick up more, I didn’t realize I didn’t buy the right thing until I started actually using it and it looked different and spread different. It’s DAP Dynaflex Ultra Advanced exterior. According to the website it is acrylic latex that is lifetime guarantee of mold, mildew, and algae resistance. So does that mean I have to scrap the side I used it on? Does it make a difference if it is fully cured and covered with eco earth but will get wet from misting?

I am not putting the crestie in there for a while as it is a big terrarium and I’m going to get a baby. So it won’t be in there probably a few months until it is the appropriate size for a large enclosure.

Personally I'd avoid using anything that's not safe for fish (ie. aquarium sealant). I know you're seeking reassurance, but I'm not sure anyone can say for sure that what you bought will be safe, especially for such small creatures, & especially in a warmed & humid environment. :confusd:

From what I've been able to find...
While it can be a food safe sealant, it does not do well when in constant contact with water. So I don't know if that will pose an issue with the humidity in the enclosure.

I saw that a few people had used it for Tarantulas and beardies ...but the fish enthusiasts hate it, even for something simple like sealing a bulkhead in a bucket.

It still needs to offgas and cure just as a silicone does. I just don't know if the misting and water contact will be an issue. If it says that it is 'food grade' on the tube, that's also better than just a basic caulk as well. That doesn't mean it's entirely non-toxic to reptiles but better than the other types for sure.

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Originally Posted by Armiyana

From what I've been able to find...
While it can be a food safe sealant, it does not do well when in constant contact with water. So I don't know if that will pose an issue with the humidity in the enclosure.

I saw that a few people had used it for Tarantulas and beardies ...but the fish enthusiasts hate it, even for something simple like sealing a bulkhead in a bucket.

It still needs to offgas and cure just as a silicone does. I just don't know if the misting and water contact will be an issue. If it says that it is 'food grade' on the tube, that's also better than just a basic caulk as well. That doesn't mean it's entirely non-toxic to reptiles but better than the other types for sure.

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the tube says 100% waterproof and weatherproof. But I don’t see anything about food grade. I assume not since it’s labeled for exterior use

I spoke to a representative from DAP and they said they don’t have test data for reptiles. But they have a mildewcide in it. I asked if it would leach, they said once it’s cured then it shouldn’t be an issue

Acrylic latex is the same as the base in aquarium-safe spray paints. Some kind of additive could potentially be an issue with leeching, but I would assume it's relatively safe after proper curing, and should be truly waterproof if that's how it's labeled. If you want to be extra safe, you might consider sealing that bit with a thin layer of silicone and eco earth.

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Originally Posted by nikkubus

Acrylic latex is the same as the base in aquarium-safe spray paints. Some kind of additive could potentially be an issue with leeching, but I would assume it's relatively safe after proper curing, and should be truly waterproof if that's how it's labeled. If you want to be extra safe, you might consider sealing that bit with a thin layer of silicone and eco earth.

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it is covered with eco earth now and ill
be leaving it for probably a week before I start any sort of water exposure. I would assume that is enough time for curing?

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Originally Posted by Kash

it is covered with eco earth now and ill
be leaving it for probably a week before I start any sort of water exposure. I would assume that is enough time for curing?

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As long as you don't have any patches where it's really thick. I think a normal 1/4" or so layer cures in 48 hrs or so, but a big glop can take quite some time.